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A Kaleidoscope of Cauliflower

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Cauliflower has undergone quite the makeover. Once dismissed as the pale cousin of broccoli, today it’s the star of soups, grain bowls, and even pizza crust. At River Towns farmers markets, though, cauliflower has never really gone out of style. Freshly picked heads are sweet, tender, and a world apart from the plastic-wrapped versions in the supermarket.
While white cauliflower remains the classic, local growers also produce colorful varieties. Orange cauliflower gets its vibrant hue from carotenoids and purple varieties owe their color to anthocyanins. Lime-green Romanesco stands out with its striking spiral pattern and mild, nutty flavor. Each brings a little something different to the table.
John Crooke of Tinicum CSA in Upper Black Eddy has been growing cauliflower for more than ten seasons. His preferred varieties are Snow Crown and Bishop, grown for both spring and fall harvests. “Cauliflower needs cool conditions to grow well,” he says. “It can handle some chilly spring weather, but a hard frost or a sudden heat wave can stress the plants.” Crooke notes that plant breeders continue developing cauliflower varieties that can better tolerate changing weather conditions, giving growers reason for optimism.
Cauliflower is happiest in cool weather, making it well-suited to our region. Most local farmers harvest both a spring and fall crop, although Penn State Extension notes that cauliflower performs especially well as a fall crop. The plants thrive in fertile, well-drained soil with consistent moisture and daytime temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees. High temperatures can interfere with head development, so timing is everything.
Like broccoli, cabbage, and kale, cauliflower belongs to the brassica family, one of the healthiest groups of vegetables you can eat. One cup of raw cauliflower provides more than half your daily vitamin C needs along with fiber, vitamin K, and folate, all for about twenty-five calories.
At the market, look for compact heads with tightly packed florets and fresh green leaves wrapped around the base. Avoid heads with spreading florets or brown spots. Store cauliflower unwashed in the refrigerator, where it will keep for about a week.
Crooke’s favorite preparation is simple. He tosses cauliflower with broccoli, garlic or garlic scapes, plenty of olive oil, salt, pepper, and nutritional yeast, and then roasts it at 425 degrees until the edges are lightly browned. The result is savory, slightly nutty and a perfect accompaniment to grilled meats or as a meal on its own.
Here’s one fun fact to share at the dinner table: That solid white head is actually a tightly packed cluster of unopened flower buds called the curd. Left in the garden long enough, those familiar florets would eventually bloom.
I’ve even enjoyed cauliflower sliced into thick crosswise “steaks,” brushed with olive oil and grilled until tender with lightly charred edges. It’s proof that this once-overlooked vegetable can easily take center stage on the dinner plate.
Lynne S. Goldman has been writing about locally grown food in the River Towns since 2009.

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